Monday, March 25, 2019

All By Myself


(I hope you sang the title in your head)

Solo adventure - December 2008
The other day a friend who is plotting a big solo trip asked how you deal with fear on solitary adventures? Such a great question! In the last couple years my anxiety has spiraled out of control with many things, but with solo trips it’s been alright. Anxiety aside, I think fear plays an important role in safe adventuring because it keeps you aware of potential dangers and allows you to determine if you have the skills to address them. Fear, unfortunately, can easily keep you from stepping out the door at all, but in the best case scenario, a healthy level of fear lets you leave the house with a Plan B for when things go wrong. See an abridged list of my fears below.

Helpful Fears
  • Wind – the worst at foiling plans
  • Lightning – the second worst
  • Dumb deer – seriously, why don’t they run away from headlights? Why would headlights ever be an ok thing?
  • Cliff edges – everyone trips, I trip all the time, so be careful
  • Driving accidents – people are the worst
  • Contaminated water – fecal coliforms, Giardia, brain-melting amoeba… choose your water carefully
  • Bears
  • Drowning

Unhelpful Fears
  • Murder deer in the woods – not a thing, but I still worry about them
  • Vagina bugs in the water – also not a thing, go ahead and skinny dip
  • People creeping through your camp to murder you in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere – if someone wanted to murder you they would do it faster than that (direct quote from my mom, who is probably right)
Since I could use a good laugh, here’s a list of some of the things that have gone wrong on my solo adventures.
Should have used that time to develop my artistic side
  1. I had to be rescued by the Park Service on my first solo vacation. Thirty minutes into a kayaking excursion on Lake Powell the wind started blowing hard and never stopped, so I spent 5 hours alone on a beach I couldn’t paddle away from. I through the guide book I packed several times (Birds of Western North America) before I swallowed my pride, called 911 (the only way to get hold of the park service in that primitive area) and was rescued by a boat with flashing lights. I can still taste that humble pie.
    Big ole sunglasses hiding my tears
  2. Hit a deer and totaled my car. Driving back from a solo trip to Capitol Reef, where I went to just cry for a while, I hit and killed a deer and it disabled my car. I was stuck in Bicknell, UT in November for an extra 24 hours and it felt like I had to ask everyone in Wayne County for help. I couldn’t have gotten to my rental car without the help of a whole fleet of people and am eternally grateful for their help. It restored my faith in humanity, but I maintain that driving is the most dangerous thing we do on any adventure. And mule deer are the worst.
    It's hard to capture fear in a landscape picture
  3. Cried and ran away from lightning in the Uinta’s. Thunder-snow is terrifying. Everything around you is shaking and electrified. Running for my life was not an appropriate response to lightning (should have squatted on the balls of my feet, being as small as possible) and slipping on slick rocks while crying (literally) made me feel like a spazzy dumbass. Something like that seems to happen every time I get a little cocky. Monsoon-seasonal thunderstorms are expected at high elevations and I’m really glad I bagged King’s Peak before it came in. The next night it snowed enough to collapse my tent. 
    I spend a lot of time looking for cool poops. This bear poop is the coolest I've found
  4. Carried around a bear-bonking stick while hiking in the Abajo Mountains; kept losing my bear-bonking stick. Situational awareness (noticing important elements of your environment and what they mean for your safety) is as important as starting with a good plan. Noticing both the bear warnings at my campground and the bear poop on the trail helped me be alert to the potential to find a bear. I can’t verify that bonking sticks are useful, but it made me feel safe. Unfortunately, I lost my stick every time I bent down to take a picture of flowers. Not the most peaceful hike I’ve taken. 
    Top of the Henry Mountains - home to the scariest deer in the world
  5. Cuddled with a hatchet or pepper spray in my sleeping bag more than once. I once had to sleep in a rest stop in rural Washington because I was going to fall asleep in a snow storm if I didn’t pull over, so I slept in the cab of my truck snuggling a keychain pepper spray. A year later I threatened a bunch of deer outside my tent in the Henry Mountains with a gun; I had no weapon and they did not understand the threat. After I caught a deer licking my car in the LaSal mountains I spent the rest of the night with a hatchet next to my pillow, just in case. 
    Pretty. Not great camping conditions though
  6. I visited Bryce Canyon around Christmas instead of going to St. George as planned. Bryce Canyon is at 7,000 feet and was under a foot of snow. I couldn’t get a fire started so fed myself by warming up Clif Bars on the electric heaters in the bathroom. An ice crust formed on the outside of my sleeping bag and crunched every time I moved, which I interpreted to be someone creeping across the snow outside to murder me. I did not sleep.  

Hopefully it’s clear that the fear never leaves, but is sometimes helpful. After more than a decade of solo adventuring, I do have some advice in addition to my anecdotes.

  • Make a plan for what you will do with each day but also expect things to go wrong.
  • While planning be explicit about the risks that are present and if they are acceptable. Getting lost is an acceptable (probable) risk for me. Free solo climbing is not.
  • Have a check-in person who knows where you’ll be and when to expect you back in cell service.
  • Check the weather and understand the effects of elevation on temperature and precipitation. We live in a magical time of smart phones with radar apps. Use them when possible.
  • Pack carefully. I like to bring reading and writing materials for long, cold nights or days I am stranded. Having something comforting, like a hatchet, when I am scared is a bonus.
  • Develop deer-eyes that check for deer on the side of roadways. And don’t drive through Wayne/Sevier Counties at night.

Solo trips give you the chance to peep wetlands without any mockery or impatience.
I’m a big believer in the solo vacation if it’s something that has ever piqued your curiosity (but it’s not for everyone). It definitely requires an honest assessment of you capabilities, but really, you’re more capable than you give yourself credit for. I tend to feel all the things very strongly, from elation to regret, while I’m out alone, but I think that’s one of the best parts of solo adventures. I guess what I’m saying with all of this is to expect a least one thing to go wrong when out of solo trips, but it will be alright.

I read this quote in a Banff Film Festival magazine years ago and I’ve put it in several blogs because it’s still the best summation of solo adventuring I’ve read:
The line between badass and dumbass is not only fine, it is a grey, wavy line, and in a different place for each individual. It’s hard to recognise, easy to miss, and painfully clear when overstepped. It’s the concept of pushing hard and not giving up, balanced against blind ambition and getting in too deep. Basically, when you start to get really scared, you are probably approaching your line.
-Leo Holding



Friday, January 11, 2019

Hunting for Jungle Bugs was Magical

Last May Brent and I went to Costa Rica, fulfilling a dream I've had since childhood. Over the course of our 9 day trip we did so many excellent things.
  • Rafted the Rio Narajano and learned from our guides how to easily slice up a watermelon (game changing information)
Preparing for the El Chorro rapid
  • Ogled hermit crabs and learned the Spanish word for cow (la vaca) on our hike to Playa La Vaca
  • Learned that Americans overstate how frightening transportation is outside the U.S.- the ferry to Drake Bay is fast, but totally fine, don't worry about it

  • Were awoken by green parrots (Loro verde) outside our bungalow at dawn (also, stayed in a bungalow)
  • Snorkeled in Playa San Josecito.
Went on a 5-mile jungle hike to get to this beach. Totally worth it!
  • Saw amazing spiders, tapirs, macaws, and monkeys in Corcovado National Park.
  • Re-learned my sleeping-in-cars habit on the winding road to the cloud forest. Don't worry about the ferries, it's the roads that are sketchy.
  • Listened to bird songs in Los Queztales National Park.
Oh my gosh! The birds! And the lichens!
  • Went trail running to waterfalls in the cloud forest
  • Took a dip in hot springs near Cartago.
  • Saw an active volcano - Turrialba - from a dormant volcano - IrazĂș.
That fanny pack is the best purchase I ever made
Instead of a multi-part saga about all the amazing stuff, I'd like to focus instead on the highlight of my trip: the Bug Lady Tour, which was amazing and had a lasting impact on the way I explore everywhere.
Horned catydid. The chompers on catydids are no joke, they can tear gaping holes in flesh
Brent seemed reticent to make Costa Rica our 2018 international destination, which I mistook for being anti-Costa Rica, rather than reasoned skepticism of what might have been a transient obsession of mine (see Becka + bike packing, Becka + woodworking). Trello, a program you can use to organize and track tasks (and now helps me remember every momentary obsession), is another thing I've been obsessed on and Brent and I share a Trello board to organize our travel. One unremarkable day I received a Trello alert that Brent had commented on a Trello card by adding a link to the Bug Lady tour! Not only did that mean that we would be going to see bugs in the jungle, but Brent was looking forward to a trip to Costa Rica!
Crickets getting busy - the male sings to the female for up to 30 minutes before she decides whether or not he's alright
Once I knew about the Bug Lady tour our trip really took on some structure. Since I HAD to go on this tour, we had to go to the Osa Peninsula, one of the most isolated parts of Costa Rica. To do this we rented a car to get from San José to Quepos to Sierpe, then took a ferry from Sierpe to Bahia Drake where we spent three days getting everywhere either by foot or by boat. Bahia Drake/Drake Bay provides access to rugged beaches and national parks and if you hike a bit to the southwest you can spot an island that was the inspiration for the Jurassic Park book.
Watching the sunset on Drake Bay was beautiful. Seeing Brent get swept into the ocean here was hilarious.
The Bug Lady tour is run by Tracie Stice and Gianfranco (Jon, if I remember right) Gomez. Jon met us near a hotel and as we hiked toward the Drake Bay trail he pointed out basilisk lizards, bats, and toads hanging out in the nearby trees. Then we hiked the Drake Bay trail, stopping often to ogle so many cool spiders, beetles, crickets, and ants. Our guides showed us how to operate the red and white lights of our headlamp early in the tour, warning us that there were nocturnal wasps out that would be drawn to our white lights if we kept them on constantly. They also reminded us to watch where we stopped, we needed to be mindful of the industrious ants, which would crawl right up and over us if we rested in their path. We spent a lovely 2.5 hours rummaging through the jungle and the only things I was really worried about were the wasps and ants.

Cane toads, actually native in Costa Rica, seemed really unimpressed with us.
One of the first bugs we spotted was a highlight for me: a highly venomous banana spider! These spiders sometimes ended up on loads of bananas and delivered really terrible bites to banana boat workers. Tracie conducted a 'temperament test' by stroking it gently with a stick and this one was pretty docile. 
A banana spider in the Phoneuria genus - so cool
Shortly after that we saw a net-casting spider and learned about how they hunt (watch this video!) and I finally pulled out my macro lens to capture everything else we saw. Now I know to ask early about photography, because our guides highly encouraged it (conscientious photography, of course, keeping ourselves and the bugs safe), they even helped with the pictures.  
A net-casting spider (family Deinopidae) and its net
Often Jon would go ahead with a spotting scope to search for whatever surprises were out that evening. He found bio-luminescent fungi growing along the trail - a glowing fungus - and what might have been a new species of arachnid! Tracie stayed with us turning over leaves to show unexpected bugs, helping us spot the hatches of trap door spider tunnels and explaining the ecology of the jungle around Drake Bay. Tracie and Jon know so much, not only about Drake Bay bugs, but about the ecology of macroinvertebrates. They are really interesting walking encyclopedias that also take great pictures. One of my favorite things Tracie told me was that ants are like the wolves of the jungle, responsible for so much of the ecological structure of the jungle. We got to see that in action because everywhere the ants went was totally clear, when they combined forces tiny ants have an outsize impact and they never stop working. 
Busy millipedes. I enjoy the Spanish common name - Milipies gigante de horjarsca - and the Latin name - Nyssodesmus python
Brent spent a lot of the tour using his headlamp to help me get well-lit (and thus better focused) pictures of the things we saw. This tour made me fall even more in love with Brent when he explained why the bug tour caught his eye. I knew Brent had some interest in science, he's got a broad array of interests from history to photography, but his willingness to sign up for a guided tour (when we prefer to do stuff on our own) looking for bugs (which most people think are icky) really surprised me. When I asked him why he wanted to go he said, "Bugs are cool. They're like tiny monsters."
Brent and a tailless whip scorpions (order Amblypygi). They have impressive chelicerae but rarely bite
Oh, my heart! Remembering the time I found out Brent thinks bugs are cool still makes my heart flutter. 
Tarantulas can live in so many places. In Costa Rica we saw these burrowing tarantulas and tarantulas that live in trees. 
Aside from hundreds of pictures that I enjoy going through, I got two major things from our tour:
  1. When you see sparkles in your headlight beam at night you can distinguish between spider eyes and water droplets by looking at the color. Spider eyes are blue and water is white.
  2. I can go out at night, armed with a headlamp and stick, to look for spiders on the ground, on leaves, and under rocks. And I do that.

In short, my life is more magical now that I can actively search for sparkles and hidden treasures in the darkness. And I mean that so sincerely. 

A Lynx spider (family Oxyopidae) noticed and photographed by Brent
Wandering home from our hike we found a wandering spider (Arana errante). 

Thursday, January 3, 2019

Wild and Precious

Le Sigh. I've reached the end of another year feeling the same conflict as in years past. How do I appropriately celebrate all the awesome that has happened without bragging? How do I acknowledge we all have struggles without being a bummer? I guess the only thing to do is try to be brief and hope it's clear the struggle is real. We all have something we're dealing with.  The video below captures how things go pretty well: we're rappelling down the Weasel in the dark with a few snowflakes after climbing a pretty great route, getting a little lost, and watching a gorgeous sunset. Adventure is always a mixed bag of good and not-so-good.


It was an action packed year. Brent and I have fallen into the practice of going out of town most weekends, which gave us the opportunity to see our favorite places and visit entirely new locations.


Before diving into highlights from the year that has passed, some personal achievements that are un-photogenic.
  • I went to the dentist and physical therapy. Going to the doctor when I'm not really sick feels like a very grown up thing to do. Like registering my car. 
  • I made progress on one of my pet peeves - I worked on not saying how busy I am when people ask how I'm doing. That's not very descriptive and if I'm busy all the time it's not noteworthy.
  • I have developed exceedingly strong feelings for the Oxford comma (it's completely necessary) after reading through 80+ water quality standards.
  • I experience regular feelings of rebelliousness when not using two spaces after the end of my sentences. Even more so because I use one or two spaces according to whims.
  • My quest to gather more hobbies continues: I now sew a little, enjoy building stuff with my power tools, like to look for fossils, and am better at kayaking.
But, of course, I took lots of pictures of the very cool things that happened this year. Below are highlights. 
  • Didn't run much, but did run great stuff: the Moab Red Hot 33k and the Rim Rock Marathon

Moab Red Hot 33K
Big climb at the beginning of the Rim Rock Marathon
  • Worked hard to become a bad ass mountain biker, attained some new levels of skill (bad-assery is a difficult benchmark to know), including surviving a 6-hour trail race

Finishing El Doce after 3 laps and 41 miles
Blissful riding on the Wasatch Crest
  • Finally got to Costa Rica, a childhood dream of mine. Searched for bugs, snorkeled, saw volcanoes
Brent holding a tail-less whip scorpion during our nighttime bug tour in Drake Bay
Hiked through 5 miles of jungle to snorkel on an isolated beach
Listening to birds in the cloud forest

  • Went on our annual backpacking trip, this time to the Sawtooth Mountains, which were spectacular

Camped and swam at this lake below the Finger of Fate
The Finger of Fate
  • Dove into backcountry skiing, it's a lot more work but also quite wonderful
First time touring to Dog Lake

  • My family came to the San Rafael Swell - my favorite people in my favorite place!

K's at the Wedge
Little Wild Horse Canyon with my people
Niblings learned how to stem canyons

  • Solo vacation took me to Great Basin National Park, tagged Wheeler Peak

I hugged a bristle cone pine
  • Built the platform for the back of my truck I've been dreaming about for years


  • The book! The book! The Great Salt Lake wetland plant book is real!

  • Spent more time on my road bike than I expected, rode it to the top of Big Cottonwood and around the Wellsville mountains for the 5th time.

Almost 4,000 feet of climbing done, ready for the downhill
  • Sister's trip to San Diego with Brent's sisters (my sisters-in-spirit) included bonding, building terrariums, and riding segways

Segways are really fun
  • Lots of opportunity for family bonding. Courtney lived with me for a bit, having a roommate was great and I enjoy getting to know my baby sister better. Took my sister-in-law rappelling, watching her overcome a fear was wonderful. Got another nibling. Mountain biked with family. Enjoyed many family get together's

Biking Wire Mesa
  • One of Brent's dreams (and what I worried would be my nightmare, but it wasn't) came true: we did big wall climbing in Zion! On the fall equinox! It was gorgeous! And stressful!

What a morning view

A line from one of my favorite poems, "The Summer Day" by Mary Oliver,  captures how I tried to live 2018 and hope to continue into 2019:
Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?  
So wild!